08/14/03

The original "Caribbean Cowboy," Johnny Vincencz, is back in the saddle again after a year-long hiatus, and it shows.

by Contributor

The Scene
While the food is as good as ever, the waiters are as bad as before. From missing utensils to obnoxious humor, they fail on every count. Well, not every count. They--like the gorgeous beige on the beige elegant interior--look great. Too bad function doesn't follow form.

The Food
Johnny V. has returned to the boutiquey Hotel Astor with wacky classics like the barbecued shrimp martini and some new dishes such as a jerk veal tenderloin. As good as it all is--and it better be with appetizers costing between $11 and $18 and entrees up to $36--the food can sometimes be over-the-top. Consider buttery bread stuffing seasoned with foie gras, mashed potatoes studded with chunks of lobster or yuca cakes fried in oil and a rich coconut broth. All deliciously decadent.